running with tweezers

the perfect potato

Ever since my trip to Sweden, I've been reminded of the beauty of a perfectly cooked potato. It's something you really take for granted. In lots of recipes, the meager potato gets haphazardly prepared in many ways and coated in stuff...so we lose sight of the toothsome bite of a spot-on spud. The folks in Scandinavia know their potatoes and they're so well versed at cooking them that they barely needed a thing. A little salt, maybe a bit of butter, some fresh herbs and - more often than not - they were a divine side during many a meal.

I was transported back to those meals in Stockholm when we recently dined at City House in Nashville, Tennessee. If you're ever there, do pay City House a visit. Alongside my sweetie's monstrous pork burger-biscuit hybrid was a spoonful of the most perfect potato salad I've ever had. Not bogged down in a lot of mayonnaise, it was tangy and flavorful and surprisingly light. Even once the towel was thrown in on the burger, everyone at the table was picking at the side dish. I came back home and had to recreate it.

The key here is the balance between a grainy mustard and a healthy dollop of prepared horseradish. In an effort to add a little saltiness and interest to the dish at the same time, I thinly sliced some cornichons and added them to the mix. It was a nice little crunch here and there with the perfectly soft potatoes, which I cook following Alton Brown's recipe. They turn out brilliantly every time. This is a great recipe to improve on - add some bacon, whichever fresh herbs you have on hand, some thinly sliced red onion...or you could leave it as is and let the potatoes shine.

Mustard-Horseradish Potato Salad - serves 4 to 6 as a side dish

• 1 pound small new potatoes, skins washed and cut into even halves or quarters - you want your potato pieces to be even so they cook evenly
• 2 tsp. good quality extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish
• 2 tablespoons good quality stone ground mustard
• 20 cornichons, thinly sliced
• 3 tablespoons freshly chopped chives - feel free to substitute any other herb you'd like
• salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

- In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, mustard and horseradish. Set aside until potatoes are cooked and cooled slightly.

- Place cut potatoes in a large stockpot and cover with cold water so that the potatoes are covered by an inch of water. Salt the water and bring the pot to a boil. Once boiling, lower the heat to a simmer and cook for about 7-8 minutes. Once they're fork tender, drain and place in a large mixing bowl. Allow them to cool slightly and toss with the mustard/horseradish mixture while still slightly warm - this will let them absorb some of the dressing. Gently fold in the cornichons, fresh herbs, and salt & pepper the potato salad to taste. Serve immediately. If you chill this potato salad, bring to room temperature, drizzle with a tiny bit of olive oil to re-wet the mixture, mix thoroughly and serve.

an ode to flavor - and a book giveaway!

This week marks the birthday of something pretty important to me. No...it's not a relationship...or a pet. It's a book. It's the volume in my (ridiculous) cookbook collection I turn to most - The Flavor Bible. The brainchild of Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg, it's the definitive text on combining flavors. Any time I'm presented with a random ingredient in a CSA or I'm stumped as to how to pair items I have left in the house, I turn to The Flavor Bible. It's an incredible work - a wonderful mix of recipes, quotes and palate information.

As a thank you for being a rabid fan of The Flavor Bible, they've sent me a copy of it's cookbook soul-mate - What to Drink With What You Eat. Only having had it a few days, I've started perusing it and taking it all in. This book covers ground that likely befuddles many home cooks - the tricky waters of pairing food and wine. Karen and Andrew have applied the same philosophies as shown in the The Flavor Bible to making those pairings - lists by food and the most complimentary wines and then vice versa. What should you cook to drink with that leftover bottle of Torrentes that someone brought to a party? It's in there. 

I feel so strongly that everyone should have a copy of The Flavor Bible that, as a way of celebrating it's birthday, I'm giving away a copy of to one of my readers. To enter, all you have to do is leave a comment on this post telling me about your favorite flavors. One winner (U.S. residents only, please) will be randomly drawn on the book's birthday - Thursday, September 16th  2010- and will be sent a copy. Please leave one comment per person - multiple entries will be deleted. Make sure when you leave a comment that you include an email address either in your log-in or the comment itself - I have to be able to get in touch with you somehow! :) Good luck, everyone!

UPDATE: This giveaway is closed - a winner was drawn at 5:30 PM on Thursday. Congrats to Brooke from Shutterboo for winning...and thanks to everyone else for taking part.

open-faced

I'm taking a blog break from waxing poetic and wistfully recalling our trip to Scandinavia in order to...share a Swedish recipe with you. I can't help it, people. The food there was *amazing* - beautiful colors, fabulous combinations of textures, liberal use of fresh herbs. Let's not even get started about the potatoes - I've never had so many perfectly cooked potatoes. Heck, the food there was so compelling that it got me to eat fresh dill, one of my most loathed flavors. 

My first run-in with räksmörgas was at Barista in Stockholm - a coffee shop that houses an indie movie theater. Their display cases were chock full of some of the most interesting and abundant sandwiches I've ever seen. I also have to say...I had the best latté of my life there. The open-faced shrimp sandwich spoke to me that day...and the 175,254 other times I saw some version of it on my trip. It's everywhere - in one form or another.

Two weeks after returning from our trip, my cravings for one of these bad boys just hadn't gone away. Since getting one of these in the States at somewhere other than IKEA was unlikely, I had to take matters into my own hands. What you put on your räksmörgas is really up to you. Traditionally, the essentials are hard-boiled egg, toasted bread, mayonnaise (Kewpie mayo worked really well here) and shrimp. Other than that, you can gussy it up however you'd like. For my version, I threw on some thinly sliced tomatoes and cucumber, as well as some lemon to squeeze on for acid. Some sandwiches I saw in Sweden had green leaf lettuce on it. I thought that might get a little unwieldy with everything going on the bread. Instead, a simple dill garnish added to the top for a little color and freshness - I think some fennel fronds might be lovely, too.

Räksmörgas - makes 2 fluffy, filling open-faced sandwiches

• 2 slices good quality, hearty bread - whole wheat or rye would be great here. I used a onion Pumpernickel bread I got at a local farmers market
• 2 hard boiled eggs, cut into thin slices
• 4 tablespoons good quality mayonnaise - I think thinner mayo works best here - use Kewpie or homemade
• 1/2 pound small shrimp (51-60 or 61-70), cooked/de-shelled/de-veined/chilled - I used fresh Gulf shrimp here
• 1 tomato, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cucumber, thinly sliced
• 1 lemon, thinly sliced or cut into wedges
• fresh dill or fennel fronds, for garnish

- In a dry skillet or toaster, lightly toast your bread slices. Apply 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise on one side of each piece and plate face up. Put down a layer of hard-boiled egg slices - roughly one egg per person. Divide your shrimp in half and place one portion on each piece of bread - it's supposed to be a big mound of seafood on it. Top with the thinly sliced tomato & cucumbers. If you've sliced the lemon thinly into rounds, drape or twist on top. If you're gonna wedge it, just garnish the plate on the side with it. Top with dill. While I would serve this immediately, you can cover and refrigerate for 1-2 hours. Just allow it to come up to close to room temp before eating.

RWT in Scandinavia - Bergen, Norway 2010

At a stark-but-charming restaurant called Jacob's, I had my very first taste of Norway: freshly caught mackerel, thinly sliced radish, sweet roasted cauliflower, sharp spring onion in a browned butter sauce. It was a beautiful dish that was at the same time unassuming and bold...simple but so complex. It's a theme that repeated itself in the food I ate in Bergen. In fact, the same could be said about the city itself and the magnificent days we spent there.

RWT in Scandinavia - Stockholm, Sweden 2010

"Stockholm, eh?" was pretty much my response as I stared blankly at my laptop screen. Mike told me he was going to Sweden for work...for 10 days. I was immediately filled with feelings of anxiety - I'm not sure we've been apart for 10 days since the day we first met - but more so was an unexpected wave of jealousy. Honestly, Sweden was one of those places that I never thought I'd go....or even thought about traveling to. However, when the possibility of joining him on the tail end of his business trip came up, I thought about that creaking sound my passport was going to make when I opened it - it's been a decade too long since I'd used it. Being able to share a trip like that with my sweetie - and experience a culture I never realized I'd been missing - was too tempting to turn down. So we sent the kitten to summer camp, packed up more camera gear than clothing, and went off on our Scandinavian vacation...

Tomato & Peach Quinoa - A Guest Post by the duo from Whisk Away!

An editors note: Before I went on my Scandinavian adventure, I asked two of my favorite bloggers - Katie and Nic from Whisk Away - to guest blog for me while I was gone. Nic held up her end of the bargain, sending me a recipe for an unusual sounding quinoa recipe. I dropped the ball and picked up a box of Kleenex - I got sick at the end of vacation & didn't get around to posting it. I've been thinking about this recipe since I received it...so I made it today for lunch, as you can see above. It's amazing - truly. Original, so flavorful, and a great dish to make for friends that are veggie or gluten-free. Thanks, ladies, for the wonderful recipe contribution and fabulous post. Here goes...

Two sisters, two kitchens, one block apart, one mantra to Whisk Away. Nic keeps it real with health food for her diabetic man. But not to worry, the blog's other half, Kate, keeps the sisters' incredible sweet tooth in business.

It's a rare opportunity in food making, or food blogging, to actually create something never before seen. But if you have a flavor pairing in mind, sometimes you can out cook Google and the legions of cooks to come before. Classic ingredient combinations are a natural place to start. This past fall while traveling through northern Italy I discovered the wonder of pecorino cheese with pear. Since then, I've thrown them together against risotto, pizza, spinach salad and ice cream. No recipe required! It's the ability to translate those combinations across a range of forms that earns you 'good cook' status.

Quinoa, however, has not been the easiest thing to incorporate into my repertoire. And I have really made an effort to bring it into rotation once my #1 recipe tester's pancreas went on the fritz, and began demanding low-carb, low-sugar, generally healthy food. Pasta is out, protein packed quinoa is in. But how to make it summery? Most quinoa recipes highlight its nutty flavor, leaning heavily fall. I can't in good conscience hack into a butternut squash this time of year.

Summer naturally presented me with peaches and tomatoes at the same time. Coincidence? I think not. It's a tried and true flavor combination, that I've seen across caprese-style salads, bruschetta and gazpacho. Could it brighten up a grain sometimes compared to cardboard? My hunch was correct, and Google confirmed this to be the first ever published Peach Tomato Quinoa. And delicious to boot!

Peach Tomato Quinoa - serves 4

• 4 medium tomatoes, diced
• 3 peaches, peeled and diced
• 1 red onion or 2 shallots (skip the Vidalia's, you don't want any additional sweetness)
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil
• 1 cup quinoa
• 2 1/2 cups broth of your choice (using veggie broth here keep the whole recipe vegetarian or vegan!)
• 2 tablespoons fresh chopped thyme

- Dice tomatoes and set in a colander to drain excess liquid. Peel and dice peaches and onion.

- Preheat a saucepan. Rinse the quinoa in a fine mesh strainer and allow to drip most water out. Scrape into the pre-heated pot and let it toast for a minute or two until aroma is released. Add the broth and thyme. Bring to a boil, then reduce and simmer for 20 minutes. You'll know it's done when the liquid is absorbed and the individual grains show a little spiral.

- Heat olive oil in a large frying pan over high heat, adding diced onion or shallots. Cook to take the raw edge off, about three minutes. Add tomatoes and peaches. Saute for no more than five minutes, or else too much liquid will be released and require extra time to boil off. Add basil.

- Fluff quinoa, and serve topped with peach tomato mixture.

the essence of tomatoes

I've been waiting and waiting to share this recipe with you but, well, there's some traveling going on that has priority these past two weeks. On our first leisurely morning of our trip, I'm up early to work on this post - this is time-sensitive stuff! I made this recipe for a dinner party several weeks ago. It was quite the dinner party dish in that it took some effort and has one of those names that brings about a good bit of guffawing & eye rolling...but there's no better title for this recipe. It is the essence of tomatoes and it's worth every minute in the kitchen. It's arrival at the table inspired a few sighs and definitely savoring of the pure, unadulterated tomato presence.

I changed the original recipe up a bit by adding the cucumber to the mix - both to add another fresh note to the dish but to help give a bit more thin liquid without having to dilute with water. Instead of pulpy tomatoes used as a garnish in the center, I've taken advantage of the beautiful & tiny heirlooms out there right now as a colorful element. If you want the tomato liquid to be more translucent and not as red, you can take the time to continue to strain the tomato water until it's almost clear - that's your call and would make this dish super elegant. For me, I wanted to cue to the tomato in the dish & wanted to spend more time with company than I did with cheesecloth. I need not say you should make this NOW as we are winding down tomato season - don't wait & attempt this with fall or winter tomatoes.

The Essence of Tomatoes - adapted from this recipe found on BBC Good Food - serves 6 as a soup/starter

• 5 pounds large cherry or small roma vine-ripened tomatoes, roughly chopped
• 1 stick celery , finely chopped
• 1 small cucumber, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 small shallot , finely chopped
• half of a fennel bulb, finely chopped
• 1 small garlic clove , finely chopped
• 2 sprigs thyme , roughly chopped
• 4 leaves tarragon , roughly chopped
• handful basil leaves, roughly chopped
• 2 pinches cayenne pepper
• 5 drops Worcestershire sauce
• 3 drops Tabasco sauce

      To Serve:

• 1/4 cup small basil leaves, left whole if small or chiffonaded if larger leaves
• 1 1/2 cups small cherry heirloom tomatoes - of any color or type - chopped or left whole if small
• good-quality extra-virgin olive oil

- In a large bowl mix all the ingredients together with 1 tbsp sea salt, cover with cling film and marinate for 6 hrs. Then, in a food processor, pulse the tomato mix in batches until roughly chopped - don't over-chop them to a mush.
- Place three layers of cheesecloth (or a new kitchen cloth) over a large bowl and pour the mix into the cloth. Tie up with string and hang in a cold place for at least 15 minutes over the bowl to collect the tomato essence. Squeeze the mixture in the cloth (you may have to do this in batches, as well) to get out as much liquid as possible. Set aside the pulp. Taste and correct the seasoning, if necessary, then cool in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.
- To serve, spoon a quarter of the chopped heirloom tomato into the center of six bowls. Carefully pour the chilled tomato essence around the tomato and garnish with the basil and a small drizzling of olive oil.

Attack of The Killer Tomato Festival 2010!

This past Sunday brought the second edition of what has become my favorite Atlanta food event - Attack of the Killer Tomatofest, which is a benefit for Georgia Organics. The organization does so much for area farmers, raising awareness of locally grown food and helping network growers, retailers and consumers together to spotlight the diversity and deliciousness of eating local. Georgia Organics is involved with many events throughout the year but this one has become a local favorite of not just me but of the entire food community in Atlanta, as evidenced by the sell-out crowd that braved the scorching heat & blaring sun to sample the best tomato-based dishes & drinks created by the best chefs and mixologists in the Southeast.

In case tastes by Atlanta legends such as Gerry Klaskala and Kevin Rathbun wasn't enough, this year's festival brought incredible chefs such as Chris Hastings from Hot & Hot Fish Club in Birmingham and Mike Lata from Fig in Charleston. There was so much deliciousness in one place, I can't begin to tell you about it all. To see photos of just a few scenes from Tomatofest, check out my Flickr set here. You can see more photos from the event both at Georgia Organic's Facebook page (there's a list of the winners there, too), as well this great recap post over at Foodie Buddha.

Cooking from the Farmers' Market - Cantaloupe in Spiced Syrup

You don't see a lot of cantaloupe recipes. The ones I've seen are for granitas or for slices wrapped in prosciutto. When I was flipping through Williams-Sonoma's Cooking From The Farmers' Market, I noticed several recipes for cantaloupe.  I was instantly transported back to mornings (or afternoons...or after dinner, really) at my house growing up. Cantaloupe and watermelon were two of my dad's favorite things. I never grew up knowing about cottage cheese and cantaloupe. I grew up knowing about putting pepper on melon. My dad always did it - sometimes with a healthy dash of salt, as well. Making this recipe took me back to those times and, well, maybe my dad was onto something.

We're at peak season for cantaloupes - they're best in July and August - and the few I've tasted have been very impressive. Super sweet and perfect texture. I've added a little sprinkle of fresh ground pepper to the final dish, as well as a smattering of herbs that are from the patio garden. The strength of the star anise and the ginger is really complimented by the brightness of the herbs and the lemon. This is just a simple, refreshing and easy dessert that was spot-on during one of the hottest summer weeks I can remember - make the syrup in advance, slice your melon & store it in the fridge and assemble when you're ready.

Cantaloupe in Spiced Syrup - makes 4 servings

• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
• 1 star anise
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 1 cantaloupe, peeled, seeded and either cubed or sliced
• 1/4 cup fresh herbs, tough stems removed - mint, regular or lemon basil, lemon verbena, lemon thyme, cinnamon basil would be great here
• fresh ground black pepper, to taste

- Heat the sugar and 1/2 cup water in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Add the ginger, star anise and lemon juice & zest and simmer for 10 minutes to make a syrup. Let cool then strain. Arrange the cantaloupe into a bowl and drizzle with the spiced syrup. Serve at once.

Cooking From The Farmers' Market - Celery, Parsley & Prosciutto Salad

I've had all three recipes for this week's Cooking From The Farmers' Market planned out for a week. As I said in my post yesterday, picking just a few of them was a tall task. I'd even gone so far as to photograph and beginning writing out the post for today's recipe choice...and then I went and confused myself. Flipping through the cookbook yesterday, I saw this and realized I had everything to make it for lunch - a bit of prosciutto left from one recipe, most of a fennel bulb from something I'm posting next week. It ended up being a great way to use up ingredients I had around the house...except for flat leaf parsley, which was missing. This "salad" is so delicious that I changed up my plans and am posting about it instead. So, please excuse that this is a bit of a "hail mary" blog post - do include the parsley when you make this because I'm sure it can only enhance an already amazing dish. 

To me, this recipe is as much an "antipasto" as it is a salad. The combination of textures in this is so wonderful, my taste buds totally ignored the fact that it included celery, which I am finally learning to enjoy. Adding the mint and the lemon just accentuates the freshness here - I threw on some fennel fronds for another layer of texture and color and substituted the spring onions for chives. I can't wait to make this on a big platter (or one of those dark slate serving boards - that would be stunning!) for a summertime party with some crusty bread to make this a light, no-cook meal.

Stay tuned tomorrow for the final of three recipes I'm sharing this week from Williams-Sonoma's Cooking From The Farmers' Market, which you can buy here.

Celery, Prosciutto, and Parsley Salad - makes 6 servings

• 6 stalks celery, thinly sliced on the diagonal
• 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced, preferably on a mandoline
• 4 green spring onions, thinly sliced on the diagonal (I substituted 2-3 tablespoons fresh snipped chives)
  
• 1 cup fresh flat leaf parsley leaves
• 1/4 cup small fresh mint leaves
• salt and freshly ground pepper
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste
• 6 thin slices prosciutto
• Shaved hard sheep's milk cheese such as Pecorino-Romano

- Put the celery, fennel, green onions, parsley, and mint in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with the olive oil and the 2 tablespoons lemon juice and toss gently. Season with more salt and pepper, if desired. Place the prosciutto on a platter and top with the fennel mixture. Garnish with the shaved cheese and serve at once.